Kirkham's Lancashire

Kirkham's Lancashire

In 1939 there were 202 farmhouse producers of Lancashire. Today, only the Kirkhams remain, with Graham Kirkham the third generation to follow in his family's footsteps by making raw milk Lancashire according to the traditional method. This involves combining curds from several days' milkings – an approach as unique as it is time consuming, having originated in the days when Lancashire farms were much smaller, and didn't have enough cows to make cheese on a daily basis. But it's well worth the effort for the resulting complexity of taste and texture. 

Neal's Yard Dairy have worked closely with the Kirkhams for over 30 years, beginning when Graham's father John managed the cows and his mother Ruth was responsible for the cheesemaking, and we look forward to many more years of this treasured territorial cheese.

Mature Kirkham’s Lancashire is aged for approximately nine to twelve months by the Borough Market shop maturing team atNeal's Yard Dairy. The cheeses are selected by the buyers at the farm when they are six weeks old, and then sent down to the shop a few weeks later.

They are turned and gently rubbed down with a damp cloth once a week. It takes the maturing team just over a minute to look after each cheese, allowing them time to evaluate mould growth, moisture loss and any potential anomalies.

The mature Lancashire is the most labour-intensive, but the rewards for that hard work are many; a rounded yet significant tang, and a visible crumble that belies a rewarding succulence when chewed. 

Rich, buttery, crumbly, with a yoghurty tang.

• Kirkham's Lancashire